Surfing is for me a way to be completely with myself.
Whenever i have overwhelming thoughts, when they circulate in my head again over and over again, worries, fears and self-doubt, then surfing brings me back into the here and now.
When you surf, you have to focus on the incoming waves, on the conditions, you don’t have time to focus on anything else.
Sometimes you have to react very quickly, if you want to get a wave.
You can’t hesitate and then, in that one moment, you have to use all your strength to paddle the wave.
You are completely with yourself, your senses are tense, focused and then, by your effort, you suddenly experience a feeling of lightness, weightlessness and freedom.
Right now in this moment, there is a presence, you feel at ease, everything else around you becomes very small and blurry.
You feel born, sheltered.
There is no fear.
There are no doubts.
You feel free.
One with you and the sea.
You can not influence how the waves come at you.
You can only try to focus on this one moment.
Sometimes you can’t get that wave.
Maybe the wave will go under you or the wave will pull you deeper into the water, and you get hurled as if you are in a waching machine.
Then you try it again and again.
And eventually you accomplish to ride this wave.
The wave will take you along.
You experience the magic of the moment.
Free from all worries, fears and self-doubt, just yourself, free and alive.
This liveliness and freedom that makes you addicted.
You want to experience this again and again.
What you always strive for.
This moment that gives you everything.
Thank you, Ocean, for the magical moments!